This was my temporary solution of using a DPDT toggle switch while I was sourcing a replacement switch. I made a bracked to hold it in place using the existing mounting tabs on the baseplate. It worked OK and possibly could have even been a permanent solution for a studio only environment.

The original switch is a unicorn. I couldn't find an exact replacement. I like the design of it but the weak link was the type of plastic used for the plunger part of the switch - any kind of sideways force applied to it and it will break inside. I repaired it twice and it broke again both times, but I gave it a try.

After doing some measurements I determined it would be just barely possible to cram a standard footswitch in there. I verified the fit using a template made from a paper plate which then in turn used to make the actual piece. The aluminum came from a donor cookie sheet.

Here I had just finished drilling the necessary holes. The next step was bending it as needed with a vice and needle nose pliers. I like that aluminum is so easy to work with.

Here I was determining the angles and heights needed to make this work, and also where the holes would need to be drilled in the baseplate. A little bit of trial and error involved. The biggest pain in the rear was just the tight space to work with.

When I had determined that the mounting bracket was exactly where it needed to be, I had to drill a hole in the plastic enclosure. This was a little tricky because I had to get this hole to line up to be exactly where the hole was on the switch mounting bracket. With some careful measuring I pretty much nailed it. Only needed slight filing on one side of the hole to get everything to line up perfectly.

I also had to modify the bracket slightly to make room for the arm that controls the end of the flat spring. This was achieved by making two small cuts and folding it over enough so that it misses this control arm.

From this angle we can see that there is just enough room for the control arm to miss the switch mounting bracket.

In this picture I tried to show the angles I needed to make this all work. The edge of the switch mounting bracket has to miss the inside surface of the plastic enclosure, which meant that the edge of the mounting bracket had to be about 1/8" from the edge of the baseplate. I used the top edge of the vertically mounted PCB as a guide. Whatever I ended up with had to be that same height and angle, or it would not fit in the enclosure.

Here is how it looks when everything is put back together. It worked out perfect. No rubber bumpers were needed and it has just the right amount of force needed to switch between modes, without it being too easy or having to put all of your weight on it. The original switch plunger would have come up thru that "conning tower" on the right. I plugged it.